![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_ecF0StlA8VocE4o-AMqGsAPgEUspQtw6nA-Dh6NfFX-pU040A5pl0Kq_KBYMuvVcdwqcA9qDp0umIhPmi5rtREGYxmhHgqJ5TNZg0F35nHeD19z0JCP2WgK-_Q7-C_yiYYqlY4zTj6c/s320/MMW138.jpg)
Photo: Dave Chamonix
Whether 8 or 80 we surfers still remember how to play. Some try to make it a sport... trying to beat someone at something is not playing... the ocean knows how to play... sometimes we say next wave and I am going in... but she thinks... dont go home yet... I still want to play... and so we wait wondering why all of a sudden there are no waves... so we wait and she plays with us...
- Bear Woznick -
John McCarthy, a man of God and huge waves, knows a thing or two about his creator. A moment of faith at Aileens, Ireland.
No comments:
Post a Comment