Monday Morning Wave

Photo: Nathan Smith

After teaching surfing near Diamond Head all day, I would come home and as I would bend over to kiss my wife hello, sometimes my sinuses would choose to drain, right at that most inopportune time. So, I would tell her... "Sorry, honey, looks like the tide came in!"

- Mark Gray -

At a wave like Backdoor, the trick is to find a crease that gets you in. Once committed, just follow the curves until you se the light. Unknown tunnel rat, diggin' it.