Photo: Nathan Smith
After teaching surfing near Diamond Head all day, I would come home and as I would bend over to kiss my wife hello, sometimes my sinuses would choose to drain, right at that most inopportune time. So, I would tell her... "Sorry, honey, looks like the tide came in!"
- Mark Gray -
At a wave like Backdoor, the trick is to find a crease that gets you in. Once committed, just follow the curves until you se the light. Unknown tunnel rat, diggin' it.
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