Photo: Jason Childs
After surfing for over 40 years, I'm the first one to make excuses. A sore back, a bit of wind, tired after work, unseasonably cold water. You know. But lately I have figured out that there is a great value in hydrotherapy. Even if I get to the beach as the sun is setting, I will try to get a wave or four. If the surf isn't good, a swim sure cleans the foam out of the eyes and is great for the mental outlook. The point is, you never know when you might not be able to get in the water, so get it while you can!
- Jay Novak -
Dave Rastovich has a theory that too much thought messes things up. Not thinking, beautifully.
I like that quote - worth remembering next time I find excuses not to paddle.
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