Photo: Dave Sparkes
Football and car racing don't demand that one lives by lunar cycles, river movement, and global wind migration. Surfing does! And for the wave-riding rhythm of life I am thankful
- Chris Malloy -The Horror. A Mexican beachbreak diablo looms beyond the frolickers. The shore-level telephoto view brings home exactly what needs to be negotiated if you want to surf this wave. Question is, do you?
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