embracing the elements on the water and in the mountains
Monday, January 28, 2008
Monday Morning Wave
Photo: Nathan Smith
After teaching surfing near Diamond Head all day, I would come home and as I would bend over to kiss my wife hello, sometimes my sinuses would choose to drain, right at that most inopportune time. So, I would tell her... "Sorry, honey, looks like the tide came in!"
- Mark Gray -
At a wave like Backdoor, the trick is to find a crease that gets you in. Once committed, just follow the curves until you se the light. Unknown tunnel rat, diggin' it.